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A week of weakness kept me
from going running, and by the end of my confinement I was as jittery
as any addict deprived of his fix. I was freed by the combination of a
warming trend in the outside climate and a decline in my
own internal temperatures.
My current favorite route takes
me through the National Zoo. I'm not a huge fan of zoos; despite the laudable
environmental goals most have now embraced, they remain depressing places
of imprisonment. Still, the zoo in the early morning is vaguely goofy
and magical, the stuff of Paul Simon tunes and offbeat short films. A
couple camels, decked out in enormous Rastafarian coats, calmly turn their
heads and watch me as I huff past their enclosure. Prairie dogs pop out
of holes and vanish in an astonishing living inspiration for a Whack-a-Mole
game.
The National Zoo recently received
two new Giant Pandas, whose arrival was greeted with the kind of frenzied
adoration you might expect to see during the second coming of Jesus. My
sister refers to this kind of wildlife as "charismatic megafauna"
-- large-size endangered species lucky enough to be cute and thus receive
widespread public support. The Zoo paid China $10 million for the privilege
of housing the pandas for ten years. By this, we can cynically assume
that the presence of the pandas will mean over $1 million in increased
annual revenue for the zoo, in the form of commemorative panda products
and enhanced fundraising efforts. People just love pandas. This helps
explain why virtually everyone has lauded the Zoo's decision to spend
this kind of money on a couple wayward mammals, while children in the
same city attend schools without enough textbooks to go around. People
love pandas.
The first day the pandas were
on public display, the Washington Post actually had a special section
all about them. A couple days later, I decided to venture through the
Zoo on an afternoon run. The area in front of the panda enclosure was
crowded, but a little patience got me a reasonable spot along the rail.
The two large creatures sat on their fat duffs and munched bamboo. I had
to admit that their exaggerated markings made them strangely teddy-bearlike,
but were they unique and fascinating enough to merit this kind of attention?
Or was this some kind of consensual mass hysteria, a bestial Beatlemania?
A couple weeks later I again
ventured over to the panda area on a midday run. It was chilly, and my
thin insulated running outfit made me seem like an alien in the heavily
layered crowd. There were fewer people present, but still more than at
any other area I'd seen. This time, the two pandas were far more animated:
tussling, rolling about, and climbing the downed trees in their large
enclosure before tumbling back to earth on each other. The crowd watched
them intently, laughing uproariously every time they cuffed and rolled
over each other playfully. After a little while, I noticed that the "playfulness"
repeatedly was instigated when the male attempted to sniff the female's
genitalia. His insistent snuffling was often met with a cute smack by
his companion, and the wacky goings-on would start again. I waited for
some precocious kid to ask a quivering parent why this was so, but no
little curious voices piped up. The pandas continued their antics, and
laughter flowed through the crowd.
Today I avoided the whole panda
area and took a roundabout path that brought me past the flamingos. The
late-day sun shone cold through bare branches overhead. The only other
people on the path were a mom crouched down by her kid's stroller, both
watching the birds dip their periscope heads into the muddy water in search
of food. The flamingos' color stood out perversely under the colorless
sky and comatose trees. They were close enough to touch through the mesh
barrier. The mom and child were so entranced by the birds' proximity that
I worried they might not hear me coming and be frightened at my sudden
appearance. I stopped short and walked up to the birds' enclosure.
The three of us watched the
birds for a short while in silence. The mother was beautiful. She had
none of the conventional sameness that is our cultural measure of attractiveness,
but as she talked quietly to her child I found myself surreptitiously
watching her. Everything seemed awfully nostalgic for a moment, a graylight
day full of bundled-up children having joyous experiences they will grow
up to forget. All the people we pass and never get to know.
She stood, and still talking
to her child she wheeled the stroller off down the darkening path. I remained
and watched the birds for a while longer before resuming my run.
Flamingos feed by sucking in
water and then expelling it through filters in their beaks. Their dramatic
color comes from chemical compounds in the tiny crustaceans they eat.
If their diet changes, they will lose their vivid orange hue. The Zoo
feeds them pellets with dietary supplements to keep them brightly colored.
I sprint across the Taft Bridge,
high above the valley formed by Rock Creek. By the time I reach the end
of the span and slow to a normal run, I am heaving with exhaustion. I
want to be tired. I don't want to wish later that I'd stayed out longer.
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